Pain d'épices is found in various parts of France and is a specialty of Dijon, where it is often sold as small cakes under the name nonnette. The name “pain d’épices” translates to "spice loaf" and can be spelled with or without an s, depending on whether it’s made with one spice or many. To be called pain d'épices, it must be sweetened with at least 50% honey. If it has honey and other sugars, it is labeled au miel ("with honey"), and if honey is the only sweetener, it is labeled pur miel ("pure honey"). In some regions of France, pain d'épices is also made with rye flour. Although gingerbread and pain d'épices share similar flavors, pain d'épices does not always include ginger. I like my spice mixture for my pain d’épices to be different from my gingerbread, so the subtle addition of anise—France’s beloved spice often found in the recipe—and the exclusion of ginger helps do that.
I made this version to be pur miel, giving it a richer flavor and sticky moistness. It’s based on the au miel version by French pastry chef Éric Sontag. Chef Éric also ups the anisé profile a little by adding an optional touch of Pastis, the famous French anise-based liqueur. Like some pain d’épices recipes, it contains no eggs, and it comes together easily in just one bowl. It serves as a unique addition to your repertoire of traditional pumpkin and gingerbread loaves.
FOR THE CAKE
¼ cup + 3/4 tsp (90 g) Good-quality dark, raw honey, preferably a local and organic one.
2 Tbsp (30 g) Unsalted butter
1/8 tsp (1 g) Salt
1 3/4 tsp Cinnamon
1/2 tsp Freshly grated nutmeg
1 Whole star anise pod
1/3 cup (79 g) Water
1 Tbsp + 1 tsp (20 g) Pastis (or use water)
¾ cup + 1 Tbsp + 2½ tsp (108 g) All-purpose flour
2¼ tsp (9 g) Baking powder
1 tsp (2 g) Dutch-process cocoa powder, sifted
Scant ¼ cup (60 g) Sweet orange marmalade
FOR THE GLOSSY HONEY GLAZE
1 Tbsp (21 g) Good-quality dark, raw honey
1½ tsp (7 g) Water
½ tsp (3 g) Pastis (or use water)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Lightly grease a 7 by 3 1/4 inch paper loaf pan with nonstick baking spray, a little neutral-flavor oil, or butter. (You can also use a 6-inch round cake pan; see Chef Zach’s Notes below for preparing the 6-inch pan.)
In a small saucepan, heat together the honey, butter, and salt just until the butter is fully melted; do not boil it. Stir to blend. Add the spices and stir to blend. Add the star anise pod, and set the pan aside for 3 to 4 minutes off the heat, covered, for the star anise to infuse its flavor into the mixture. Add the water and Pastis to the pan and stir to thoroughly combine. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the liquid into a medium mixing bowl, ensuring to scrape all the spices into the bowl that may be clinging to the sides and bottom of the pan.
Using a whisk, thoroughly combine the flour, baking powder, and sifted cocoa powder. Remove the star anise pod from the honey mixture. Sift half the flour mixture into the honey mixture and thoroughly stir with a whisk to combine (there may be some small lumps at this point). Sift in the remaining flour mixture and stir again with the whisk to combine, just until the flour is fully incorporated and the mixture is smooth.
Scrape half the batter into the prepared pan. Briefly stir the marmalade vigorously to loosen it, then spoon half of it in small dollops on top of the batter. Using a wooden skewer or the tip of a knife, gently swirl the marmalade until it is slightly incorporated into the top of the batter; just a few gentle swirls here and there will combine it sufficiently and distribute it evenly.
Scrape the remaining batter on top. Spoon the remaining marmalade in small dollops over the top of the batter, swirling it gently again to lightly combine it into the top.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center and near the edges comes out mostly clean but with a few moist crumbs.
While the pain d’épices is baking, make the glossy honey glaze: Add the honey, water, and Pastis to a small saucepan over medium heat and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil and immediately remove it from the heat. Cover, and set aside to keep warm.
Place the cake on top of a cooling rack and immediately brush the top all over with the warm honey glaze. Let the cake cool completely, then carefully unmold it; you may have to run a small offset spatula or paring knife carefully around the edges to loosen it from the pan.
Chef Zach’s Notes:
I’ve kept this cake small because I associate pain d’épices with Dijon’s small nonnettes. Smaller sizes are fun wrapped up in cellophane and tied with a bow to give as gifts during the holidays, and you can fit more of the smaller pans in your oven to bake them in batches. If using a 6-inch round cake pan, lightly grease the bottom of the pan and line it with a 6-inch round piece of parchment paper (Use the bottom of the cake pan to trace a circle of parchment paper the same circumference as the pan. Cut out the circle and place it upside down at the bottom of the pan so that any pencil marks are against the pan.) Lightly grease the top of the parchment circle and the sides of the pan. Add a few tablespoons of flour to the pan and rotate the pan to evenly coat the bottom and sides. Tap out any excess flour.
Part of the fun of making pain d’épices is your own proprietary blend of spices you add to the honey-butter base, but please don’t exclude the star anise—unless you feel you must!
Cocoa powder is not common in pain d’épices recipes. I added a touch because I love the subtle cocoa flavor that accompanies the spices as well as the slightly deeper color it creates.
Regular orange marmalade has a bitter edge to it, stemming from the bitter orange (Seville orange) used to make it. If you aren’t fond of the bitterness of regular orange marmalade, try “sweet” orange marmalade instead, which can be found in supermarkets in the jam aisle. Traditional pain d’épices can include candied orange and lemon peel in place of orange marmalade, but in France orange marmalade is sometimes used. I opted for the marmalade in this recipe to make the recipe more approachable. Decorate the top of the cake with candied orange and lemon pieces, if available.
I love this cake the next days after it is made more than on the same day, as the flavors have melded more and the glaze has had more time to penetrate into the cake. Once it has cooled completely, keep it sealed airtight, either wrapped in plastic wrap or placed in an airtight container. It stays moist for several days at room temperature when stored airtight.